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Citrus Budding
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Laaz
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:04 pm    Post subject: Citrus Budding Reply with quote

Ok I hope this helps anyone attempting citrus budding.

First select a budstick you want to use. Here I am using a variegated Centennial kumquat.


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Laaz
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The buds are right next to the leaf bases which you will see as a small bump. (As Skeeter stated do not use the first 3 - 4 as they are usually blind buds and will not work.)



Next strip the leaves off making sure not to damage the buds. Tools I use for budding.


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Laaz
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next you are going to cut the bud off the budstick starting about a 1/8 of an inch above the bud.



Make sure you know which end is the top, inserting the bud upside down will cause the bud to fail.

This is the bud removed from the budstick. I stick the bud in my mouth to keep it moist while cutting the rootstock.


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Laaz
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make a inverted T cut in the rootstock and then peel each flap open as pictured with the tip of your knife. If the rootstock is slipping it will peel very easy.




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Last edited by Laaz on Sat May 30, 2009 4:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I then take the bud and stick the tip of the knife blade in the leaf base just below the bud as pictured. This makes it easy to insert the bud into the inverted T.



Next gently slide the bud up into the inverted T. The bark will split as you slide the bud up. Once the bud is up just past the bottom of the cut you are good to go. The bark from the rootstock will hold the bud in place if you have done this correctly as shown.


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Last edited by Laaz on Sat May 30, 2009 4:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now start below the cut and start wrapping the tape up above the bud, and then back down, keeping some pressure on the tape.



Finished wrapped bud. After your done, leave the budded rootstock in a semi shaded spot for about three weeks.



After three weeks if you have done this correctly, the bud will still be green and taken to the rootstock. This is a variegated Valencia orange I budded three weeks ago. Once the bud has taken I cut the top of the rootstock off a couple inches above the bud. The bud should start pushing out new growth in a few weeks.


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2009 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice pics Lazz. I have not tried sticking the bud with the knife. That might help if I don't have my jig. I am sure you do not need a jig, but I think it can really help a beginner, making it easier and safer, to cut buds

I cut the T first and with my bic pen top to hold the cut T open, Then I cut the bud with my jig (Joe did a pictorial on it) and slip it directly in --in just seconds.

Here is the link to the pictorial that Joe did on the Jig (aka Third hand device):

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Last edited by Skeeter on Sun May 31, 2009 9:13 am; edited 3 times in total
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 1:29 am    Post subject: in the mouth? Reply with quote

I am surprised that you put it in your mouth to keep it moist. I thought bacteria are bad for the graft. The mouth has lots of bacteria in it; though maybe not the ones that like to live on/in citrus plants.

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 2:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you shave slivers off to expose more cambium?
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Laaz
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ned and Stan were the ones that originally taught me to graft. Most all grafters will tell you they put the bud in their mouth to keep it moist.

No you do not shave anything off. When the bark is slipping and you make the T cut the bud will slip in make 100% contact with the cambium. When you wrap the bud it pulls the bark back down tight around the bud.

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Skeeter. Never needed anything to hold the bark open. This method take a few seconds without any additional tools. I always hold the budstick in my had and cut the bud by pulling the knife toward me with a nice smooth stroke.

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you use rubber bands, can you ever wrap the rubber band too tight? Can you strangulate your bud? On one bud I wrapped with rubber band, it started to exude a sticky brown liquid after a few weeks. What could this signify?
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Laaz
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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2009 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
If you use rubber bands, can you ever wrap the rubber band too tight?


I never use rubber bands, but I guess you could wrap them too tight. The brown liquid is probably sap. I have never had this problem before.

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Location: 20 miles north of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 4:44 am    Post subject: citrus grafting Reply with quote

OOOOOHHHH! You guys are the gurus I've been seeking! I've lived now seven years about 20 miles north of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, at 22 lat....
I have grapefruit, limon, lima, carambola, lychee, fig, jaka,papaya, mango.... and an eight foot volunteer citrus that's never borne. I suspect it's a start from cast-off grapefruit or lime peels and pulp.
Here's my question: I want to try grafting my other citrus onto this tree, especially my Texas Ruby Red, and soon my Ponderosa lemon and kaffir lime. Should I cut this rootstock plant back before grafting? Best time of year? Any other hints?
Thanks so much in advance! I'm thrilled to find this site!
Camille

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Skeeter
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are going to T-bud, there is no need to cut it back in advance--you can cut the limb off about 2 inches past the bud once you are ready to force the bud.

You should be able to tell by the large wings on the petiole, but your seedling is more likely a grapefruit than a key lime--grapefruits can take more than 12 to 15 yrs to fruit, key limes just 2-3. Both should grow true to type--so it should be like the tree it came from.

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