Franco, you already asked what zone your're in & someone answered. If I remember, you're in zone 6-7? Look up your question.
If you graft upsidedown,it will always grow upward. You can't make a tree grow upside down.

Actually the bud should fail if inserted upside down.

Hmmm. Not sure about and upside down graft. I did graft something onto my Eureka lemon sort of upside down. Hasn't sprouted yet, but then again, it has failed yet either...

most upside down bud will fail. I've never seen one that sprouted.

I've had one upside down graft that took, was alive for more than 4 months, remained green, but it never sprouted. It was ultimately swallowed by the stock bark.

I remember my bio teacher talking about something how he used to put branches on a tree upside down somehow but i can't remmeber how. I go back to school on september 6th i think and ill ask him then and get back to you.

Edit: and the branches grew upside down

Maybe he grafted onto the bottom of a horizontal branch? That's the most "upside down" thing I can think of LOL. Let us know Franco.

Hey Joe, have you ever tried four flap bannana grafts on persimmon?

Do you think it would help to cut and store some "winter wood" for grafting in the spring after bud break? It seems to have really helped me with pecans.

Final question-- where can I get some grafting wood?

Skeet

Skeet, I might try it (4-flaps), but the major drawback with the method is finding the exact matching diameters unlike the bark grafting method. Sometimes when you have just one scionwood to graft it unto a particular spot, the chances of having matching size is very small and very frustrating. So I use grafting techniques that are more forgiving with mismatched sizes.

You can get the newly dormant budwoods, wrap them in moist newspapers, put in ziploc bag with couple of punch hole for ventilation, stash away in the veggie bin of the fridge until you are ready to graft in spring.

I get our persimmon scionwood from various friends in the neighborhood, and for the rarer cultivars, we got CRFG scionwood exchange each year. I go to three places, I follow the scionwood from Santa Clara CRFG where they first appear, up to Sacramento CRFG where I can take all I want before they throw them away.

Check with your state regs if it is okay for you to take persimmon scionwood from outside state.

Regards,

Joe

Philip, I have tried that with my T-budding, but the rate stayed the same. What is better is that to dip the newly cut buds in a diluted mixture of rooting hormone. It will have very good cambial healing.

I bought one of those gel-based rooting dip, mix 4 drops (medicine dropper) into one half glass (4 oz) triple distilled (sterilized) water and placed the newly cut citrus buds in there while I prepare the T section. After the T-section is prepared on the destination stock, I fish out the citrus bud and insert them. The buds stayed moist while the T is prepared and received about 2 minutes of soaking. I resort to this method when the weather is really warm as in summer time. Otherwise, I simply prepare the T-section first, cut the bud and insert it for the already waiting T.

Hi Joe,
I used your bark grafting tutorial today with the persimmon wood you sent. My persimmon tree had finally started leafing out. I used the whip graft method like you suggested on the small limb and it felt very secure.

Hopefully, I will have persimmons in a few years!

Thanks for the scionwood and the tutorial.-- Skeet

Hi Joe,
I have never seen a grafting demonstration but I studied this tutorial many times. In the last 3 weeks I have made over 60 bark grafts on citrus, apple, pear, peach, nectarine, apricot, plum, and cherry. I used the budwood from the Jan exchange in Sacramento. So far about 20 of the grafts are showing growth and I am hopeful for most of the rest. I followed your example as close as I could- I cut myself twice. I plan to go to the CRFG cirtus scion wood exchange in April and get more varities. Thanks for the outstanding tutorial.

Helix